The storefront of Taquería Aztlán in South Philadelphia, Juana's sole source of income. (Photo: Courtesy/Juana Librado)

“Why Did You Choose Me Again This Year, Lord?”

«Why did You choose me again this year, Lord?» asks Juana Librado, looking up at the Philadelphia sky.

There is no resentment in her eyes. Quite the opposite. A smile remains on her lips.

Juana is originally from Oaxaca and is the owner of Taquería Aztlán in South Philadelphia.

She admits that her strength in the face of adversity comes from Christ and from the fellowship she shares with fellow church members.

«They pray for my children,» she says gratefully.

As she reflects on her life, Juana describes herself as a warrior.

Juana Librado, a native of Oaxaca, is the owner of Taquería Aztlán. (Photo: Juana Librado)

«As immigrants, we are brave,» she says. The words sound less like a statement and more like a call to persevere despite the difficult situation she is currently facing. The landlord of the small storefront where her restaurant operates has denied her access to the premises until she pays the full amount of overdue rent.

«He says he understands my situation, but he has shown no compassion,» Juana laments.

Life has never been easy for a woman who has never had the luxury of giving up.

As she recounts her journey, one can picture the 13-year-old girl sent to Puebla, far from her family in Oaxaca; the wife who arrived in a country where she did not speak the language; the mother left alone to raise young children; and the single mother who woke up every morning to sell tamales from a cart in order to feed her family.

Since arriving in Philadelphia in 2000, Juana has endured nearly every hardship an immigrant mother, wife, and business owner can face: the deportation of her family’s primary breadwinner, serious health challenges affecting her children, and exploitation by unscrupulous individuals who took advantage of her limited English proficiency and lack of familiarity with systems designed to protect her.

But nothing stopped her.

«I started selling food at a soccer park to support my family. I delivered meals to construction sites. I think I should be grateful for these challenges that happen to all of us,» says the resilient entrepreneur.

«I have always worked. Even when my older children were little, I would travel to Camden, New Jersey, and sell food,» she recalls proudly.

Juana’s dream became reality in August 2024 when she opened her small taquería in the city she loves so much: Philadelphia. It gave her a place to showcase the Oaxacan and Pueblan cuisines in which she specializes.

«At my taquería, I offer two distinct culinary traditions, from Oaxaca and Puebla,» she says happily.

Among her specialties are Oaxacan tlayudas served with Puebla’s traditional yellow mole. She also takes pride in serving her customers freshly made quesadillas.

When she opened the restaurant, she understood that building a business would take time. What she did not anticipate was that major public works projects would begin almost immediately on the street where her restaurant is located. For months, road closures made it difficult for customers to access the business or find parking.

Cooking is an activity that brings Juana immense joy. (Photo: Juana Librado)

«The construction equipment, the dust, the traffic cones blocking the street…» Juana recalls.

Yet she persevered once again.

«I’ve rebuilt my business several times throughout my life,» she says proudly.

Now life is testing her once more.

Juana is fighting to reopen her taquería. The landlord will not allow her to use the space until she pays the outstanding rent debt.

The business is not only her dream. It is also her family’s sole source of income. If she cannot open the restaurant, she cannot generate the money needed to pay what she owes.

For that reason, Juana recently launched a fundraising campaign to prevent an imminent eviction and the permanent closure of her beloved taquería.

Support from nonprofit organizations, community advocates, small donations, and personal loans has enabled her to work with advisors who are helping her continue operating her business, support her family, and raise the money required to settle the debt and reopen.

Neighbors say Juana has always been generous with the community, frequently donating both her time and food for local events. As the owner of a small family business, she has worked tirelessly to grow while serving the neighborhood she calls home.

She remains determined to keep her dream alive.

A dish prepared by Juana Librado of Taquería Aztlán. (Photo: Juana Librado)

«I’m very proud, and I feel more prepared now than ever before. My business is small, but it’s very family-oriented, and I care deeply about it,» she says.

Taquería Aztlán is one of the businesses affiliated with the Association of Mexican Entrepreneurs in Philadelphia (AEM), a nonprofit organization founded in 2022 in response to the challenges brought on by the COVID-19 pandemic.

The restaurant was featured last August during «Negocio of South Philly,» an event held at the Mexican Consulate in Philadelphia that concluded the series «Discover the Flavors of South Philly.» The initiative was designed to bring attention, visitors, and new customers to more than twenty Latino-owned businesses throughout Philadelphia.

Once Juana raises the money to pay her rent, regain access to her restaurant, and stabilize her family’s finances, she hopes to improve her ability to manage food orders through social media platforms.

«Right now my children have to help me with that,» she says with a laugh.

The courageous small-business owner ends the conversation with the same smile she began it with.

«I only ask God to give me strength and wisdom to know how to manage my business.»

Information Box

Taquería Aztlán
1500 Federal Street
Philadelphia, PA

Hours of Operation (when open):
10:00 a.m. to 10:00 p.m., seven days a week

Phone: (267) 701-3808
Email: jlibrado33@gmail.com

Donation Link:
https://gofund.me/fb61c36c7

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